Mountain Appreciation

It is hard to believe it has now been a month since I left home. While chatting over dinner a few nights ago, someone commented that it seems like we've done so much in four weeks here and yet it also seems like the time has gone so fast. It's been a little over a week since I last posted and a few of the lab team are shipping out tomorrow for 3 days trekking so here is a quick update:

After a good long run

 The Sherpa treks and the first Western trek finished up quite nicely. It was a whole lot of work but we became more streamlined as we went. Perhaps the most difficult part of the 8-day testing run, from an endurance perspective, was Club Namche. I don't have any pictures yet, though I'm sure they will surface in the coming months. Club Namche, the Height of Entertainment, is home of quite possibly the highest (and almost definitely the hopping-est) dance party on the eve of every trek's departure. That means dancing your socks off with a disco ball, laser lights, Sherpas, and a wood-and-yak-chip-burning stove every other night. And while it is wildly fatiguing, you all know I love a good dance party.

But when the dust settles, it is nice to get out and stretch the old legs - the shot above is after 10 miles and 4 hours up to the incredible monastery at Tengboche with views of Ama Dablam and back via the Everest View Hotel above Khumjung.

Above Namche to boulder in Zarok

...and then there was climbing. We've been quite busy with data collection, lab setup, learning as many experiments as possible in order to cross-cover if needed. Still, there comes a time in a young man's life when he just really needs to pull on some rocks. On the opposite side of town from where we stay, there is a trail leading steeply up to the airstrip which is traveled mostly by yaks but occasionally tourists headed up to Syangboche airstrip from Phurte or Thame. It winds through a nice little boulder-field which, I must confess, I have traveled through several times in the name of reconnaissance. It goes without saying that you should not come to the Khumbu primarily for the technical rock climbing, but it also goes without saying that if you are going to live somewhere with decent rock for three months and you can find instructions on the internet to take your crash pad apart and stuff it in your luggage - then you most definitely should.

Leading near Khunde with Nyima Tsering Sherpa on belay

Our first outing bypassed most of the boulders as we hiked over 400 meters up to just above the city of Khunde (about 12,500 feet). We were accompanied by Nyima who runs the Cafe 8848 in town. He works with the Khumbu Climbing Center in Phortse which was established to teach Sherpa guides modern rock, ice, and mountaineering technique. He gets to climb with the likes of Conrad Anker and Cedar Wright, who come up and support the KCC in a big way - raising funds and setting new routes. Nyima was also responsible for bolting a couple of the routes we climbed. Though a lot of the rock here is either dirty, rotten, or mossy - you can find the occasional face with good consistent climbing and beautiful water streaks like the one above. Nyima tells me they've had a problem with hardware theft but there were enough hangers at the top to lower off and take a couple laps.

This seems like it's getting to be a pretty stale punchline but here it is:
"And this is the view" - from the top of the climb Everest (left) and Lhotse (right) can be seen in the distance both with snow clouds blowing off the summits

 We got back to the lab right away for the arrival of the next two Western treks - trek E and trek F. After four days of testing them (and hitting Club Namche hard in the evening) the last of them left this morning and it was back to the boulders.

Arete problem above Namche with Thamserku in the background

Some people get a very tangible urge when they see a cute little puppy or a furry bunny rabbit and they just want to squeeze 'em! That happens with me and mountains. It's actually a thought that occurred to me as we breached the haze on the plane flight from Kathmandu to Lukla and I got my first live view of the Himalayan range. Just the sight of mountains gives me an appetite to kick a step in the ice or snow, weight a good climbing hold, float a ski turn into newly fallen snow. The mountain air carries something spiritual and sublime, as evidenced by the fascinating culture and religion of the Sherpa people, but also something visceral and basic - the best word is hunger. And hmmmm, don't it taste so good!

Working out the moves on a steep boulder above Namche - it's a good thing I'll be here for a couple months!

 In addition to the spiritual and the visceral, mountains bring something social with them as well, as evidenced by our eager onlooker above. I have been blessed to be raised in a family and surrounded by close friends who I could bond with up high where things get just a little clearer - a little simpler. I think it's the combination of all the qualities that abide in the vastness of mountaineering and climbing that make an instant community. Yesterday, one of my colleagues and I walked down into town and met Suzie, a doctor from Scotland staffing at Everest Base Camp with the Himalayan Rescue Association this year. She didn't think twice about chatting for over an hour with us about mountain medicine, climbing, suggested trekking routes all over some hot lemon tea. After climbing a few days ago, we had lunch a young female Sherpa who summitted Everest and Ama Dablam last year and worked in Utah and on Rainier as a sponsored athlete for Sherpa Adventure Gear. Mountains bring people together to share stories and connect in a wonderful way and the whole thing just leaves me with a smile on my face.

So that's it, find your nearest mountain or even your nearest rock, if that's all you've got, and give it a big squeeze!

Namaste and Happy Easter!